Galapagos to Marquises.
We left our rolly anchorage in Puerto Aroya, Galapagos on Tuesday 25th June and headed West, for some 3000 odd miles to Marquises, the first group of islands in French Polynesia.
We, thankfully, had more wind than anticipated and it bolted us along the first few days. I kept thinking I'll be seeing islands soon. But of course, my brain is forgetting that we haven't even gone a third of the way yet, this crossing is just going to go on, and on, and on.
We had a party on the first Friday at sea. This was a made up celebration, but was meant to be for my birthday earlier in the month. Joel made his promised cake and the girls were thrilled to be his assistants in the galley. It was pretty delicious and kept us going for the next three nights as an after dinner treat (a very popular and well received idea 'round here).
We've run the engine a few times so far during the trip, so hot showers are still available every second day or so and we are keeping clean. Washing clothes, towels and sheets is another story in rolling seas. For now I'm sticking to immediate needs being rinsed and hung out to dry and brought in on the same day before salt and spray make an impact and the process starts again! Personally I'm trying to re-wear everything and have had the same t- shirt on for a while now....everyone else seems to be wearing as little as possible. Suits me, as long as the washing basket stays low.
I dropped the main sail by myself on my night watch last night. It was bashing around as the wind had died. So I started up the engine and we were back in business. Of course, when I do it again next time I won't be so cautious. I know now that ropes and sail end up everywhere,but in the sail bag, if you drop it at a snails' pace.
The girls ask where we are going from time to time. They have a book about sailing to Galapagos, which I got in Galapagos (a tad late but we all still enjoy it) and are now understanding that we are on our way to Australia but are stopping in Marquises first (and a few other spots too, but we'll mention those when necessary).
After 4 nights at sea, I'm guessing we have at least another 12 to go, but of course that's only if the wind stays the same and doesn't die on us. Reading about our next set of destinations give me the impression that we have adventurous and rugged places to explore with perhaps less people, marinas and boats - we really will be cruising the South Pacific!
The past few days have been particularly rough, in large swell and waves lurching the boat this way and that, whilst still surging us forward of course, but it has been quite a difficult time to do ordinary chores and tasks. The wind speed is up to 25 kts; things have gone flying on more than more one occasion, causing mess, curses and moods to change. Joel's coffee barely gets drunk before it is spilt (and it is in a covered thermal mug mind you) and preparing anything involves bracing yourself and everything else as it'll slide right off the plate! We've had a double reef in for two days now and are still moving along at a good pace.
We are now a third of the way! Hooray. We shared a celebratory can of beer and stared at the sea in disbelief that we had come so far, and yet had so much further to go. It is hard to imagine that this ocean is as big as it is, and that once upon a time explorers were crossing it without a clue as to where they were going, it baffles us.
Finally the wind eased by Wednesday! We shook out one reef and the calmer seas are very welcome.
So after a third, comes half! We celebrated crossing the halfway point with a shared can of beer again and a packet of chips too; which Isabelle also helped to demolish. Just the chips, not the beer!
The calmer seas meant I was able to stick to my plan and bake the girls' birthday cake the night before on my watch. They were 3 on Friday 4th July. A chocolate cake was prepared, cut into a number 3 and then iced with purple icing. All between the hours of 12 and 3am and all by the light of head-torch. The things we do. It isn't my best work but the girls thought it was great and enjoyed adding the final touches of spots (M&Ms) in the morning.
With cake made, presents wrapped and balloons strewn around, it was as good a party as it was going to be on the high seas! Isabelle had been talking about turning 3 for weeks now and knew that opening presents (or at least one) was part of the celebration. With birthday music blaring, the girls happily played with newly acquired toys and ate pancakes for their birthday breakfast. A really special reminder that each birthday doesn't have to be full of too much more than love, fun and cake!
Visitors on board and off.
We regularly have flying fish jump aboard at night when they must head towards light. But one night a larger visitor came onboard.
Of course it was my watch and I heard the louder than normal thump of something hitting the deck and the aftermath of the thing thrashing about trying to save oneself. But this fish was at the stern of the cockpit, not On the side deck where the flying fish usually land. No, this fish had managed to jump onboard via the highest side of the boat (windward side), clear the netting, bounce on the teak above the cockpit cushion seat and land in he cockpit. Hesitantly I got the torch and saw the intruder. A barracuda! About 18 inches long, teeth bearing. I found a small fish hook remover and grabbed the baseball bat (fish whacker) in case it came to that. Slowly with the torch in one hand I got the hook into his gill and began to lift him up.
That's when my silence ended. I screamed as he writhed around, heavier than expected. Joel came running - half expecting to see me hanging off the lifelines! He quickly too the hook device and lifted the barracuda over the lines and proceeded to shake him off. Finally his torment and mine was over. The stern of the boat was now not so pretty as blood and fish scales were scattered round. It must have really hurled itself up here, and then bashed itself practically senseless trying to get back to where he came from.
I managed to settle my adrenalin back down and continue my watch, it was only 0130 hours. Joel went to reassure both the girls who had heard me scream that all was ok. They were concerned I needed to go to hospital! The fish though, might need one.
Finally, on day 14 of this trip we had some more company on the seas. Firstly a large pod of dolphins came by to swim and frolic in the waves near the boat. They were a welcome sight and kept me entertained for a good while, watching me dart is way and that, always in groups it seems.
Then during the morning and then evening we had two boats show up on our screen. The first was a fishing vessel only 6 miles away at its closest point, and yet I saw no sign of it on the horizon. A cargo ship bound for Panama was 11 miles away in the evening but again too far for any lights to glow.
The seas have been lumpy again for a few days now. The wind has been so good to us on this trip, that I don't think we would wish for it to be any other way. A steady breeze pushing us along at a happy pace. With 670 miles to go, we hope to set anchor on Saturday 12th, making it 18 days at sea, fingers crossed. I've just throw out the last pieces of rotten carrot and the few apples that are left are so bruised that I will need to attempt to make an apple crumble out of the good parts. Thankfully we still have some sausages and mince left for this week in the tiny freezer. Potatoes are aplenty as well as canned goods. I hope it is possible to find some fresh vegetables in French Polynesia, I've read that you go to gardens and seek them out- I hope I don't have to harvest them as well! Will be interesting I'm sure. Perhaps I should look at my personal supplies to see what I could trade for a good handful of carrots and beans?
Our countdown to Nuka Hiva, our first island stop in Marquises reads like a radio station at the moment; 106.1, then 99.6 and currently 91.3 miles to go. We had first glimpse of land on the radar just as we exchanged watches on Friday night. So Saturday morning's sunrise saw both a beautiful orange ball rise in the sky along side a huge mountainous rock - the first island of Marquises.
We still had no sign of life as we got closer and closer to our destination of Nuka Hiva and only a conversation on the radios was heard, confirming that, yes, people are around. By lunchtime Saturday 12th July, we had set our anchor in Taiohoe. This large bay was filled with at less another thirty yachts and we felt to be in the right place straight away.
To have the anchor down after so many days at sea was a good feeling- of relief and accomplishment. We did it, and are still smiling. On to the next adventure, some South Pacific culture.