Our journey to Tonga took 10 nights - our second longest passage on this entire trip and here are some photos we captured during the voyage:
We arrived in the waters of Tonga at night and anchored off some cliffs for a peaceful nights’ sleep (well 2 hours sleep as we anchored at 0400 after an afternoon and night of motoring in the light conditions and were up at sunrise). We awoke to a glorious outlook of fog cascading down the cliffs-it was an awesome sight. Just as we were leaving we spotted some spouts and whales! Then as we moved off, another group were even closer by, breaching the water and taking a look around. What a sight, all within an hour of being awake! As we got closer to the entrance to the Harbour a dive boat was lurking around, and yes, more whales! We were delighted that this was our introduction to Tonga, and what was to be expected in these waters.
We know we are getting closer to home when you spot meat pies and sausage rolls in a cafe on a quick stroll down the street. Brilliant! - but yet another unhealthy item to add to our diet on this boat. With official business out of the way in Tonga; that’s us tying two yachts deep on a busy commercial wharf with 4 different officials on the boat during the morning asking pretty much the same questions and us completing pretty much the same forms, we were cleared in and ready to relax. Picked up a mooring ball and looked upon the town that we will soon get to know as we get chores, errands and the like done after 10 days at sea. The radio is constantly buzzing with people’s chatter: Can you bring the ipad charger in? Where’s so and so? And good to have you back. All very friendly, and from what we can tell, mostly New Zealand and some Australian accents!
We have enjoyed eating out at the waterfront cafes, seemingly only there to serve yachties and buying fresh fruit and vegetable from the local market. The softest white bread is for sale at the supermarket, and makes the idea of eating my whole-wheat doorstops (as Joel calls them), a real chore. After getting ourselves acquainted with town, we went off in search of our first anchorage and exploration of Vava’u.
We have enjoyed eating out at the waterfront cafes, seemingly only there to serve yachties and buying fresh fruit and vegetable from the local market. The softest white bread is for sale at the supermarket, and makes the idea of eating my whole-wheat doorstops (as Joel calls them), a real chore. After getting ourselves acquainted with town, we went off in search of our first anchorage and exploration of Vava’u.
The beauty, as we were about to discover for the week here in Vava’u, is that each anchorage is only an hour or so from each other and there are plenty of places to explore, both above and below the water. We stopped at a place called Vaka’eitu with, with only 2 or three other boats anchored it seemed ideal with beaches to explore. By the end of the evening, there had been at least another 6 boats come in and there was a large group now formed! The girls were happy to be on land again and squirming in sand. The following morning we meet a few children on the beach and a beach BBQ had been organised for a birthday that evening which turned out to be a great affair with nearly every single boat in attendance. The girls had an absolute blast and were quite popular amongst the older girls being carried around and looked after.
We decided to move on and went to Blue Lagoon, which was also where the movie of the same name was made – I will have to watch it one day. At low tide we went ashore to a smaller beach (there were several to choose from) and had a great lunch picnic and beach afternoon. We saw a couple of blue finger sea stars (don’t have their proper name) in the shallows along the rocks and foraged for some shells. Lots of sandcastles and buried children later, we’d had a grand day. Back on the boat however, now the tide was up, swell was approaching us from both sides (it gets over the reef at high tide) and we were now stuck in the lagoon for the night as sunset approached. Needless to say we didn’t stay a second night as one was definitely enough! We moved to Ovalau Island which is an ideal anchorage with everything we want: a great beach – in fact, two to explore, some reef to snorkel, and shells to collect. We met up with another boat, Koa, with two small children, and enjoyed another great afternoon playing. The next day another boat we had met briefly joined us, with their four children, and we had a terrific morning on the beach. Lots of fun!
We decided to move on and went to Blue Lagoon, which was also where the movie of the same name was made – I will have to watch it one day. At low tide we went ashore to a smaller beach (there were several to choose from) and had a great lunch picnic and beach afternoon. We saw a couple of blue finger sea stars (don’t have their proper name) in the shallows along the rocks and foraged for some shells. Lots of sandcastles and buried children later, we’d had a grand day. Back on the boat however, now the tide was up, swell was approaching us from both sides (it gets over the reef at high tide) and we were now stuck in the lagoon for the night as sunset approached. Needless to say we didn’t stay a second night as one was definitely enough! We moved to Ovalau Island which is an ideal anchorage with everything we want: a great beach – in fact, two to explore, some reef to snorkel, and shells to collect. We met up with another boat, Koa, with two small children, and enjoyed another great afternoon playing. The next day another boat we had met briefly joined us, with their four children, and we had a terrific morning on the beach. Lots of fun!
Trying our best to find a balance between getting the most out of each anchorage and also trying to see more- we decided to move again. Port Mourelle, Kapa Island is a place that is actually meant to be very busy with yachts. Not so the day we got there. We had the beach to ourselves the first afternoon, scouring it for shells, of which to my delight, there were plenty! The following day I took the girls ashore myself and we had a delightful time, again combing the beach for more shells (the boat is heavily weighed down) and playing in the shallow water that we didn’t notice the receding tide line. By the time we got ourselves ready to go, the dinghy was high and dry and only had rocks and coral in its’ way! Bummer! So the girls played alongside in the water while I heaved and shoved as much as I could, but in the end, after getting it a good metre or so (and having it all but touching the water) I gave up and just waited for Joel to swim in to rescue us. Of course it took him one great big pull and we were beach free. Phew, husbands are good for something.
I went for a terrific snorkel along the rocky shore line and saw an abundance of reef fish in a variety of colours and species. The coral itself was not in great form but the blue sea stars were prolific and I saw several other notable sea stars and slugs. It seems the colours of yellow, black and white play a dominant role in many fish species in the Pacific, a new feature for me to see, and very different from the Caribbean.
I went for a terrific snorkel along the rocky shore line and saw an abundance of reef fish in a variety of colours and species. The coral itself was not in great form but the blue sea stars were prolific and I saw several other notable sea stars and slugs. It seems the colours of yellow, black and white play a dominant role in many fish species in the Pacific, a new feature for me to see, and very different from the Caribbean.
Later in the afternoon we took the dinghy to Swallows Cave. This is a large natural cave with an opening into the sea that can be entered in the dinghy. I was surprised at how large it was inside. The girls were amazed by it too. The water was clear and we could see a large school of fish hovering in the water. A bit too dark and spooky to swim for me, a great little treat for the afternoon.
We took a detour into town to restock our food supplies, and headed back out to meet up with a whole bunch of yachts from the first anchorage, but this time off Kapa Island, at Nuku Island. This is apparently one of the most photographed islands, and with the sand spit exposed and turquoise waters all around it is easy to see why. Girls enjoyed playing with all the other kids who were there. We went to a local church in the village on Kapa Island on Sunday morning. It was great going with other people from the anchorage (as the girls were entertained), and the singing was beautiful. Acapella, of course – you don’t even realise there is music missing when the people sing with such harmony and faith. Some of the notes (I thought produced from one person) pierced my ears, what a belting set of vocal chords. The service was in Tongan, and so we could only stand and sit as the rest of the congregation did and enjoy observing. The girls seemed to enjoy the experience and asked later if we could go again.
We took a detour into town to restock our food supplies, and headed back out to meet up with a whole bunch of yachts from the first anchorage, but this time off Kapa Island, at Nuku Island. This is apparently one of the most photographed islands, and with the sand spit exposed and turquoise waters all around it is easy to see why. Girls enjoyed playing with all the other kids who were there. We went to a local church in the village on Kapa Island on Sunday morning. It was great going with other people from the anchorage (as the girls were entertained), and the singing was beautiful. Acapella, of course – you don’t even realise there is music missing when the people sing with such harmony and faith. Some of the notes (I thought produced from one person) pierced my ears, what a belting set of vocal chords. The service was in Tongan, and so we could only stand and sit as the rest of the congregation did and enjoy observing. The girls seemed to enjoy the experience and asked later if we could go again.
After lunch we left the anchorage to find Mariner’s Cove. This is another cave, but this one can only be accessed via an under water passage from the cliff face. We had another yachtie, Ulf from Koa, join us for the trip and so once located he and Joel went off swimming in search of the cave. We need to have a live boat, as it was too deep to anchor. I tried to keep an eye out to see where the men went, but after I had turned the boat around I lost track of them and could only presume they had found the cave and were under the water, inside. Then I saw them swimming back and once on the boat exclaiming what a sight it is to behold. Well, I just had to see it too. Joel and I took off, leaving Ulf in charge, and the twins asleep. Hesitating above the entrance to the cave Joel took my hand and we went in together. He said my eyes bulged as I looked at him like I was running out of breath….but of course, he signalled to look up and I could see the top of the water above me and swam up to breathe. A very large cavern inside, carved out from centuries of water rushing in. As the waves action pushing the water into the cave the air pressure increases and can be felt in your ears. The air also becomes a sheet of mist only to be then gone as the pressure decreases with the next wave. An amazing experience and certainly one we were so glad to have both had the chance to do.
Heading back to the same anchorage for beach afternoon was on the agenda. Drinks and great conversation made for the end of a really super day.
Most of the boats headed off the next day, to discover other anchorages and we too, after a long morning of chores combined with a quick beach trip, made way to find a new place for the night. We took the opportunity to go whale watching for a bit, but with no luck. We still had not seen any more spouts or whales since our first morning in Tonga. We had a brief stop off Pau Island and as the girls slept I went ashore alone in the hunt for sand dollars as it was documented that they were found here. Unfortunately I only found two, and they were both compromised slightly. But of course I also found another good half bucket of shells to sort through, much to Joel’s delight. We moved to the more sheltered anchorage off Tapana island and enjoyed a quiet happy hour by ourselves, the only yacht in sight.
We are now counting down the days until our departure to Fiji, and we are now (as I type this) back in town to do last minute restocking and refuelling before we go. I have heard there is a cargo ship arriving tomorrow so perhaps some more produce will hit the shops? Who knows, we will just have to make do with what we can find.
We have had an amazing time in Vava’u, Tonga. Of course, it would be wonderful to see the rest of the kingdom but if you had to pick an area this is it. The islands are all so close and we have felt that it is no problem to change our minds and go to a new place if we don’t like where we are. Tonga is certainly no secret in the Pacific, but in our minds we had no idea it was such a hidden gem for cruising. What a great place to spend some time, and of course more time if we had it!
More photos to come of Tonga - internet is painfully slow and in a cafe...fingers crossed we find it better in Fiji.
Most of the boats headed off the next day, to discover other anchorages and we too, after a long morning of chores combined with a quick beach trip, made way to find a new place for the night. We took the opportunity to go whale watching for a bit, but with no luck. We still had not seen any more spouts or whales since our first morning in Tonga. We had a brief stop off Pau Island and as the girls slept I went ashore alone in the hunt for sand dollars as it was documented that they were found here. Unfortunately I only found two, and they were both compromised slightly. But of course I also found another good half bucket of shells to sort through, much to Joel’s delight. We moved to the more sheltered anchorage off Tapana island and enjoyed a quiet happy hour by ourselves, the only yacht in sight.
We are now counting down the days until our departure to Fiji, and we are now (as I type this) back in town to do last minute restocking and refuelling before we go. I have heard there is a cargo ship arriving tomorrow so perhaps some more produce will hit the shops? Who knows, we will just have to make do with what we can find.
We have had an amazing time in Vava’u, Tonga. Of course, it would be wonderful to see the rest of the kingdom but if you had to pick an area this is it. The islands are all so close and we have felt that it is no problem to change our minds and go to a new place if we don’t like where we are. Tonga is certainly no secret in the Pacific, but in our minds we had no idea it was such a hidden gem for cruising. What a great place to spend some time, and of course more time if we had it!
More photos to come of Tonga - internet is painfully slow and in a cafe...fingers crossed we find it better in Fiji.