I realise that I have been a little distracted since landing in Tahiti, and have not updated the blog for a good while now. There are no excuses since we have fairly reliable internet now! Hopefully the following will get everybody up-to-date with where we've been, and our adventures along the way.
Good bye Hana Moe Noe.
Happiest three days of our trip. Joel went ashore to say goodbye and leave Steven with a photo that we took the day before. We had gone in with cupcakes to help him celebrate his birthday (which, as it turns out was actually the next day). Last night, Joel and Steven went dinghy fishing, catching several. Thankfully Steven knows which fish are safe to eat, as many fish around these parts have ciguatera poisoning and are a real danger to eat. Steven gave us fish that he had tried before, and kept one for himself that was an unknown…Joel was went to check that he hadn’t been poisoned overnight! However, we now have 4 fresh fish in the fridge ready to pop on the BBQ with any luck. It is really picturesque here, so quiet and calm. I’m sad to be leaving.
The final Marquesan islands.
We went and stayed on Hiva Oa for 2 nights. Using it as a quick provisioning base before we went to Fatu Hiva, the southern, and most isolated island in the Marquesas group, only accessible by boat. We were determined to get our shot of the anchorage of ‘The Bay of Virgins’ and enjoyed 3 nights in this peaceful village. The steep cliffs rise high on the sides of the anchorage, creating a wind tunnel at times. There were a few other boats already there, and one we knew from Galapagos. The girls enjoyed the company of another little girl, Isobel from Sunrise and we had a playdate with 4 little girls on board one morning! A lovely atmosphere here; everyone is so friendly and helpful.
Good bye Hana Moe Noe.
Happiest three days of our trip. Joel went ashore to say goodbye and leave Steven with a photo that we took the day before. We had gone in with cupcakes to help him celebrate his birthday (which, as it turns out was actually the next day). Last night, Joel and Steven went dinghy fishing, catching several. Thankfully Steven knows which fish are safe to eat, as many fish around these parts have ciguatera poisoning and are a real danger to eat. Steven gave us fish that he had tried before, and kept one for himself that was an unknown…Joel was went to check that he hadn’t been poisoned overnight! However, we now have 4 fresh fish in the fridge ready to pop on the BBQ with any luck. It is really picturesque here, so quiet and calm. I’m sad to be leaving.
The final Marquesan islands.
We went and stayed on Hiva Oa for 2 nights. Using it as a quick provisioning base before we went to Fatu Hiva, the southern, and most isolated island in the Marquesas group, only accessible by boat. We were determined to get our shot of the anchorage of ‘The Bay of Virgins’ and enjoyed 3 nights in this peaceful village. The steep cliffs rise high on the sides of the anchorage, creating a wind tunnel at times. There were a few other boats already there, and one we knew from Galapagos. The girls enjoyed the company of another little girl, Isobel from Sunrise and we had a playdate with 4 little girls on board one morning! A lovely atmosphere here; everyone is so friendly and helpful.
Ashore, we found a sleepy village; with one tiny shop, only open at select hours. A few people make and sell handicrafts from their homes; however speaking French would really be a true advantage to starting conversations about their lives and work. The traditional art ‘Tapa’ is now only made here on Fatu Hiva in the Marquseas. Only 3 types of bark are used from the breadfruit tree, banyan and mulberry tree. The bark is stripped, wet, beaten down to paper thin and then dried. Then the artist draws on their intricate design and paints it with black paint (use to be a more authentic dye). I got to see the paintbrush used – a twig with human hair (the artist’s) wrapped around it and the bark beating instrument – a very large, heavy stone. So, after some broken English I got to see the only two pieces that the woman had to sell. There weren’t to my taste, so we left empty handed. A shame not to get this authentic art form from its original artist, but we also want to be able to hang it on the wall.
Tuamotus here we come.
The passage to the Tuamotus atolls is 575 miles from Fatu Hiva, and so we prepared ourselves for several nights at sea again. The wind was in our favour and made the 4 nights go quickly. These short hops seem nothing now. Thinking back to those first 4 nights at sea in the Caribbean, on our way to Aruba, I remembered sitting there thinking it would never end. I guess we have become sailors, as 4 nights at sea seems like a breeze!
We caught a wahoo on our first day out, so that helped with organising meal preparations for the rest of trip. Coming closer to Rangiroa (our chosen atoll to visit) we started to become concerned with the notorious Pass into the lagoon. The passes into the lagoons in the archipelago (including Rangiroa) are generally narrow channels through the fringing reef with surf on each side and are usually rife with fast flowing outward current (between 1 and 8 knots) and large standing waves at the entrance. We made the decision that if it looked bad (tide going wrong way, waves, or just not our thing) we were going to bypass and head straight on to Tahiti.
The passage to the Tuamotus atolls is 575 miles from Fatu Hiva, and so we prepared ourselves for several nights at sea again. The wind was in our favour and made the 4 nights go quickly. These short hops seem nothing now. Thinking back to those first 4 nights at sea in the Caribbean, on our way to Aruba, I remembered sitting there thinking it would never end. I guess we have become sailors, as 4 nights at sea seems like a breeze!
We caught a wahoo on our first day out, so that helped with organising meal preparations for the rest of trip. Coming closer to Rangiroa (our chosen atoll to visit) we started to become concerned with the notorious Pass into the lagoon. The passes into the lagoons in the archipelago (including Rangiroa) are generally narrow channels through the fringing reef with surf on each side and are usually rife with fast flowing outward current (between 1 and 8 knots) and large standing waves at the entrance. We made the decision that if it looked bad (tide going wrong way, waves, or just not our thing) we were going to bypass and head straight on to Tahiti.
As we approached the Pass, we could see the turbulent water, rushing out and meeting the sea with some foamy action in some parts. The rip pulling across the pass was strong (it seemed) and concerning. There were plenty of smaller power boats around, mainly dive boats, and one was friendly and helped to guide us to the right direction to navigate through the rest of the pass. After this initial help we were then left to our own defences and our engine’s grunt to help us get through the middle of the action with waves (5 feet), swell and tidal current going on all around us. Meanwhile, we had the engine revs up to 2000 and we were only doing 0.8 kts (we would normally do 6kts, so that meant there was over 5 knts of current pushing against us and a bit sideways too). Something to be mindful of was that only a good two boat lengths away the deep cut in the pass dramatically shallowed and coral and rocks were aplenty. We can’t tell you the huge sigh of relief we felt once we were through….at no point did it feel unsafe, rather it was just an unknown.
Rangiroa
We had 4 nights in this picture perfect setting. Anchored off a luxury hotel we could get the same view as the guests, but for free! We had a few trips to shore, snorkelling, beach frolicking and walks to the local shop for ice cream and baguettes.
We enjoyed a wonderful day sail to the West of the atoll. The winds were light and we got the kite out and had such a brilliant few hours sailing across on calm flat water. Perfect! We anchored off a motu (the islands that make up the atoll) and all enjoyed a long walk on the beach, shell scavenging, before a beach picnic. Joel went snorkelling amongst the coral heads, and came back to report he saw two black tip reef sharks (very common around here), which was enough to put me off, so I just stuck my head under long enough to see the plethora of giant clams that are attached to all the coral heads here.
We had 4 nights in this picture perfect setting. Anchored off a luxury hotel we could get the same view as the guests, but for free! We had a few trips to shore, snorkelling, beach frolicking and walks to the local shop for ice cream and baguettes.
We enjoyed a wonderful day sail to the West of the atoll. The winds were light and we got the kite out and had such a brilliant few hours sailing across on calm flat water. Perfect! We anchored off a motu (the islands that make up the atoll) and all enjoyed a long walk on the beach, shell scavenging, before a beach picnic. Joel went snorkelling amongst the coral heads, and came back to report he saw two black tip reef sharks (very common around here), which was enough to put me off, so I just stuck my head under long enough to see the plethora of giant clams that are attached to all the coral heads here.
Tahiti
On leaving Rangiroa we sailed the 200 miles to Tahiti in just over 24 hours, one night – which was great, but we arrived in the dark so choose the most straight forward, well lit channel to enter the reef and anchor. The next day we moved to the major Marina in Papeete and began cleaning, provision and maintaining the boat. We’ve been into Papeete town centre a couple of times. Bustling with people, it is a little busy for us but has a few good chandleries to get boat gear, and I have enjoyed browsing (and making a few purchases at various stores). The English section (which was teeny tiny) of a bookstore I found is now without quite a few books as Joel and I needed to replenish our stock.
On leaving Rangiroa we sailed the 200 miles to Tahiti in just over 24 hours, one night – which was great, but we arrived in the dark so choose the most straight forward, well lit channel to enter the reef and anchor. The next day we moved to the major Marina in Papeete and began cleaning, provision and maintaining the boat. We’ve been into Papeete town centre a couple of times. Bustling with people, it is a little busy for us but has a few good chandleries to get boat gear, and I have enjoyed browsing (and making a few purchases at various stores). The English section (which was teeny tiny) of a bookstore I found is now without quite a few books as Joel and I needed to replenish our stock.
The marina is full of sailors, mostly heading to New Zealand, some to Australia and a few just wherever they end up. We have met up with people we met in Nuku Hiva (who have now become great friends), and have enjoyed quite a few nights of dinners and drinks at the local marina restaurant and bar. This life isn’t so bad after all! Supermarkets, haircuts, gas fills and even a trip to McDonalds has made one week here already fly by. We are keen to see more of Tahiti soon and will try to head around the west coast around Wednesday and then sail to Moorea (all but 5 miles away) by the weekend. Can’t wait! |