We have been here in Galapagos for just over a week now and plan to leave on Monday 23rd June. We have tried to see as much as we can on Santa Cruz, the island that our boat is anchored (and without a zillion authorizations and paperwork many moons in advance, cruising yachts are only allowed to anchor in one place).
Each island of the Galapagos seems to have its own attraction and of course we are unable to visit each of them and must make the most of our isomer on this island. Thankfully it is known for the giant tortoises, one of my must-dos here.
We have been to the Charles Darwin Research centre and saw the breeding centre with tiny tortoises up to the giants that look to be close to 100 years old. They are huge. This is the same place that lonesome George was kept, he passed away in 2012 and there are t-shirts and even a whole shop dedicated to his name. It seems once you could actually walk between the tortoises but these gates have been closed, but for now there is only a low railing fence that easily allows for little and big people to see the tortoises up quite close if they choose to be. We were lucky to have one walking around near the fence and eating. Isabelle and Gracie were in awe initially, as was I. Clicking away on the camera they seem quite un-phased but aware of our presence.
We were also greeted to the view of two tortoises mating, something they seem to do quite often as we also saw another pair, well one, trying to perform his task. Isabelle was watching, saying he's trying to climb up. But the lower tortoise was having none of it and quickly reduced herself(?) into her shell in hope to be left alone. It worked.
The smaller tortoises are divided into the year they were born and then into the island their species originates from. They live in this captive area for 2 years until they are big enough to stop being a target for predators such as rats. The facilities seemed pretty slim compared to what might be found in a big city on the mainland, and I know some of the work conducted here is also dependent upon volunteers. It is certainly a wonderful place, I just hope it is taking the best care of the tortoises it is put in place to preserve.
Another day saw us head to Las Greitas. A crevice between sheer rock faces that is filled with a mix of fresh and salt water that according to Joel was freezing. It was quite a hike to get to the place, and the last bit to get down involved boulder hopping that neither one of us fancied with the twins. So Joel scrambled down and had a brief free dive with parrot fish and schools of small fish, possibly Jacks. Then we stopped on our way back and all enjoyed a sunset swim at the only accessible beach on this volcanic island. It was cool, but very enjoyable after a long walk and carrying backpacks and children.
Yesterday we took a taxi (which is a usual site seeing method here, without the zazzy tourist slant), with a driver who only spoke Spanish, and a translator (a 17 year old chap here on work experience that we met through our agent). It was a morning tour to 2 huge volcanic craters that were literally on the side of the road, and private land with giant tortoises and lava tunnels, which are accessed, with toddler in arm, by, again, scrambling down boulders and slippery rocks. We also enjoyed one of South Americas' local snacks - a cheese empanada; which is basically deep fried pastry filled with cheese and they are every bit as good as they sound!
Today was a maintenance day on the boat, and overall jobs day. After pancakes for breakfast (the very last of the self-rising flour now used up), as we had no bread; we got on with various tasks. Joel started the outboard motor to test it was ok after nearly a month of no use. Here in Galapagos, they run a water taxi service to get to shore. The same system was also in Panama, although the boats are far better here, and cleaner. So we have not used our dinghy in a while - it is tied to the foredeck, or engine. Nevertheless, it started without problems, hooray.
My job today, was to finish off the last of the provisioning. I tried a different supermarket and got most of it. Of course, there will always be things I can't find, and try to substitute with the local brand...then we get a surprise when it's time to use it! I will attempt to go to the local fresh produce market by myself tomorrow morning and restock the little we have used during the week. We all went last week, and as fun as it was looking and seeking out various vegetables, some people found the hour a bit long and tedious. Won't name names.
Sunday we are booked to go on a tour to another island, North Seymour for the day. So I will hopefully have time to fill you in on that before we set sail Monday.