We were greeted to the sight of Port Davey on a beautiful warm and sunny morning. Having sailed to and spent time here in previous years, we know the south west wilderness is a sight to behold.
We anchored in Bramble Cove along with 14 other boats, the most I’ve ever seen in this area and enjoyed an afternoon of kayaking and exploring a little beach close by.
One remarkable observation that I must make on this particular trip is the colour of the water. Normally, the tannins from the Old and North river, creeks and rivulets seep into the water in Port Davey, particularly once you are in Bathurst Harbour, and the water is a brownish red hue. So dark that in previous trips you cannot see the bottom until it really is right under you. However, this week we have been privileged to see really quite clear water, due to the lack of rain lately, seeing the yellows and browns of the bull kelp, a variety of soft corals and even tiny fish darting about. It is no colourful tropical reef, but I managed to understand and appreciate that what I was seeing was special and not always so easily on display. With the weather the warmest on our first day, I think I missed my only opportunity to snorkel…perhaps another summer trip will be warranted.
We anchored in Bramble Cove along with 14 other boats, the most I’ve ever seen in this area and enjoyed an afternoon of kayaking and exploring a little beach close by.
One remarkable observation that I must make on this particular trip is the colour of the water. Normally, the tannins from the Old and North river, creeks and rivulets seep into the water in Port Davey, particularly once you are in Bathurst Harbour, and the water is a brownish red hue. So dark that in previous trips you cannot see the bottom until it really is right under you. However, this week we have been privileged to see really quite clear water, due to the lack of rain lately, seeing the yellows and browns of the bull kelp, a variety of soft corals and even tiny fish darting about. It is no colourful tropical reef, but I managed to understand and appreciate that what I was seeing was special and not always so easily on display. With the weather the warmest on our first day, I think I missed my only opportunity to snorkel…perhaps another summer trip will be warranted.
Bramble Cove is host to four little beaches, so it is fun to ride, paddle or kayak between most of them. As I mentioned, with the little rain this area has received all the small rivulets that normally run on to the beaches were not much more than a trickle - even with the girls trying to free the blockade that had been made by sticks and kelp.
We enjoyed a night at Clytie Cove to sit out what was meant to be a strong south westerly. This didn’t eventuate, thank goodness, and we only had a stiff breeze for an hour or so before another quiet night tucked in this idyllic cove. We went ashore earlier in the day to explore, noticing the tiny shore landings had different coloured sand on each side, split by a rocky spine. Upon arrival, it was not sand but tiny rocks or stones. One side was creamy coloured, the other white pebbles. Neither Joel or I could come up with an explanation why this phenomenon had occurred. The rocks between the two shores was not huge, and made from a different black rock…anyone willing to share their opinion is welcome.
We enjoyed a night at Clytie Cove to sit out what was meant to be a strong south westerly. This didn’t eventuate, thank goodness, and we only had a stiff breeze for an hour or so before another quiet night tucked in this idyllic cove. We went ashore earlier in the day to explore, noticing the tiny shore landings had different coloured sand on each side, split by a rocky spine. Upon arrival, it was not sand but tiny rocks or stones. One side was creamy coloured, the other white pebbles. Neither Joel or I could come up with an explanation why this phenomenon had occurred. The rocks between the two shores was not huge, and made from a different black rock…anyone willing to share their opinion is welcome.
On Sunday an impromptu lunchtime VDL group BBQ was called for last minute socialising before the fleet was again split, with boats beginning to leave, (in a short weather window) for Cockle Creek. This was once again a great way to meet more of the fleet and enjoy time on the beach. The girls were involved in games of cricket, building sandcastles and playing on the water’s edge. The temperate had dropped significantly with the Southerly front, and the wind was chilly to say the least. Everyone was glad to be back on the warm boat, with hot Milos and hot showers after we’d warmed the water with the engine getting to the anchorage. Smiles all round.
During the week we had a visit from Joel’s Dad, who flew down from Hobart to visit us for the day. The girls were especially excited to have a visitor and enjoyed showing off all their newly acquired items of rocks and sand, journals written and pictures drawn. Chris kindly delivered us some loaves of bread, which means I might make it through this whole trip without having to bake any…a small feat within itself. We had a lovely few hours catching up, anchored in the north west corner of Bathurst Harbour before needing to return Chris to his pick up point for his return trip.
During the week we had a visit from Joel’s Dad, who flew down from Hobart to visit us for the day. The girls were especially excited to have a visitor and enjoyed showing off all their newly acquired items of rocks and sand, journals written and pictures drawn. Chris kindly delivered us some loaves of bread, which means I might make it through this whole trip without having to bake any…a small feat within itself. We had a lovely few hours catching up, anchored in the north west corner of Bathurst Harbour before needing to return Chris to his pick up point for his return trip.
The following day we enjoyed a family walk together, climbing to the top of Mt Beattie. This is no Mt Rugby (a challenging 5+ hours trek that we will attempt in years to come), but an achievable two hour return walk climbing approximately 276 metres according to the guide book. The initial half hour is pretty much climbing and it certainly got my lungs going. Ella enjoyed a ride on Joel’s shoulders for a good part of the journey and her sisters occasionally got enough energy to run ahead much to the shock of the guide leading a large group of campers ahead of us. |
The view from the top of this relatively small hill was fabulous. The sun was shining brilliantly by mid-morning and we could not only see everything within Bathurst Harbour and Melaleuca clearly but the mountain ranges beyond in all directions. I would highly recommend anyone getting to this corner of the state for a day or two to do this walk. It gives you a great perspective of the area and size of the harbour, which is said to be three times the size of Sydney harbour.
We spent the afternoon in tiny Iola Bay to get out of a stiff afternoon breeze, and then headed to Spain Bay early Wednesday morning, as it is the ideal jump off for our departure the following day. The weather continued to be absolutely amazing and the big girls and I took the opportunity to follow the 2 hour return track to Stephen’s Bay (which faces the south and the sea). Joel and Gracie had done this walk, 6 years earlier…perhaps Gracie was carried most of the way, but I was looking forward to achieving it myself. |
The scrub at times was thick. Wombats and perhaps some humans had made some alternative paths where the track had once been overcome with mud. With the lack of rainfall, we had a mostly dry track, but I would hate to do this walk after rain, as there are parts that were still thick with mud!
The buttongrass seems to go on forever between hills, and the girls enjoyed singing 99 bottles of milk on the wall for a good while to keep pace. We saw evidence of wombats, and heard lots of birds but unfortunately didn’t get to see any wildlife this time around.
Hearing, and then seeing the wild ocean rushing to the shore was refreshing and we enjoyed our lunch, squatting on a couple of rocks, and then wandered down the beach for a short explore. There are middens in the large sanddunes in this bay, and we managed to come across a couple of small examples, but I’m sure there would be plenty more further along where the sanddunes are even higher.
The buttongrass seems to go on forever between hills, and the girls enjoyed singing 99 bottles of milk on the wall for a good while to keep pace. We saw evidence of wombats, and heard lots of birds but unfortunately didn’t get to see any wildlife this time around.
Hearing, and then seeing the wild ocean rushing to the shore was refreshing and we enjoyed our lunch, squatting on a couple of rocks, and then wandered down the beach for a short explore. There are middens in the large sanddunes in this bay, and we managed to come across a couple of small examples, but I’m sure there would be plenty more further along where the sanddunes are even higher.
We lifted the anchor as soon as there was enough light the next morning, and endured some of the big southern swells this area is known for, for the first hour or so of the trip. Once we had rounded south west cape, the swell backed off slightly and the wind picked up. We passed all the big landmarks of this area; the three southern capes, and the Maatsuyker group with De Witt, Flat witch as well as flat top and round top islands. It was with great relief to head into the calm waters of Recherche Bay for the night, also know as Cockle Creek for those who drive to the southern most point of Tasmania by road.
We enjoyed a sail up to Dover alongside Charlie’s dream, another VDL boat. The wind filled in in the last 5 or so miles and Charlie’s Dream hit their accelerator making it a race! The girls thought this was quite exciting however we didn’t even have our main up so we couldn’t really challenge them properly.
That night there was a social BBQ (fresh salmon) held on the grass, in front of where the old yacht was before it was burned down two years ago. The BBQ was also a fundraiser and the club is now another $3000 closer to getting a finished building. We had a lovely relaxing lay-day in Dover spent with grandparents and then moved up to Port Huon for yet another social function at the Kermandie Hotel. ( Not sure why all the social events are in the last week!). We arrived and the weather was warm, so the girls took the opportunity for a last kayak of the holiday. This only lasted approximately 15 minutes or so, and then the afternoon sea breeze kicked in and we all needed to fight almost breaking waves to get back to the boat. Joel managed to pick everyone up in the dinghy but I was determined to keep and made it back- my arms just slightly jello and needing another shower after the continuous salt spray over my board.
We enjoyed a sail up to Dover alongside Charlie’s dream, another VDL boat. The wind filled in in the last 5 or so miles and Charlie’s Dream hit their accelerator making it a race! The girls thought this was quite exciting however we didn’t even have our main up so we couldn’t really challenge them properly.
That night there was a social BBQ (fresh salmon) held on the grass, in front of where the old yacht was before it was burned down two years ago. The BBQ was also a fundraiser and the club is now another $3000 closer to getting a finished building. We had a lovely relaxing lay-day in Dover spent with grandparents and then moved up to Port Huon for yet another social function at the Kermandie Hotel. ( Not sure why all the social events are in the last week!). We arrived and the weather was warm, so the girls took the opportunity for a last kayak of the holiday. This only lasted approximately 15 minutes or so, and then the afternoon sea breeze kicked in and we all needed to fight almost breaking waves to get back to the boat. Joel managed to pick everyone up in the dinghy but I was determined to keep and made it back- my arms just slightly jello and needing another shower after the continuous salt spray over my board.
Finally, on Day 34 we upped anchor and left our last anchorage headed for the marina. Hobart really decided to roll out the red carpet for our arrival ( insert sarcasm here), as we had drizzly rain and cold temperatures to begin our journey. The flat waters of the Huon ended and we were faced with 1-2 metres of swell with wind up to 20 knots in the river. It made our journey home quite rough and since none of us were prepared for it, the saloon was quite a mess afterwards, with pencils, paper and almost the entirety of the washing up going on the floor!
Needless to say we made it home and are so thankful for the experience that we have all had over the past several weeks. The stories, memories and new acquaintances will remain with us for a very long time. Thanks for reading our adventures, we look forward to catching up with friends and family over the coming days and weeks.